Paolo Carzana, a rising star in the fashion world, invites us into an intimate exploration of his latest collection. Set against the backdrop of a historic London pub, this presentation transcends mere clothing to become a profound narrative on beauty, strength, and the human condition.
A Poetic Journey Through Fashion and Tradition
The Birth of a Vision
In the days leading up to the Autumn/Winter 2025 showcase, Paolo Carzana was barely holding onto two hours of sleep. His voice, heavy with exhaustion, spoke volumes about the relentless pace of fashion. Yet, it was this very urgency that fueled his creativity. Just a month prior, he had only begun cutting his initial fabrics. For a designer known for his meticulous eye, this tight timeline presented unique challenges. "Ideally, I would have started earlier," he admitted, "but throughout the year, I’m focused on making ends meet."Carzana’s journey is marked by respect rather than fame or wealth. Vogue’s Sarah Mower has championed him since his Westminster University days, and Cathy Horyn of The Cut praised his work for its integrity and unparalleled vision. This acclaim is well-deserved; his previous presentations, including one where a model reenacted Caravaggio’s Narcissus in a leafy Hackney garden, left audiences deeply moved. That show was part of his 'Trilogy of Hope,' culminating now in Dragons Unwinged at the Butchers Block.Inspiration from the Streets
Working late nights at the Paul Smith Foundation’s studios in Smithfield Market, Carzana witnessed the early morning rituals of local butchers. Despite being a vegan, he found himself drawn to the community’s resilience and tradition. "Even though it is hard to understand what is happening, you see a real community of working people," he reflected. This environment sparked thoughts of dragons—symbols of untouchable beauty and power. In today’s world, however, these symbols face challenges. The destruction of the earth and erosion of human rights made him question what happens when power is stripped away before it can fully manifest.The Final Chapter Unfolds
On a drizzly Sunday evening, Carzana transported the fashion crowd to the Holy Tavern, a charming 18th-century pub in Farringdon. Sixty guests gathered in its cozy nooks, braving the rain outside. The collection, concise yet impactful, featured just 15 looks inspired by 19th-century aesthetics. Each piece was crafted from scraps of lace and linen, tied close to the skin without stitching, creating a hazy sheen under candlelight. These techniques, honed over a decade, reached new heights with a hand-applied palette of colors. “All the colours have been applied by hand with brushes and spray,” Carzana explained, drawing inspiration from Toulouse-Lautrec’s paintings.This final chapter of the Trilogy of Hope, titled Dragons Unwinged, symbolized purgatory—a place where souls find mercy on their purification journey. The soft, hand-dyed hues represented this transition, with tones of pink blending into rich yellows and light blues derived from natural dyes like logwood and turmeric. The result was a sunrise-like palette, ready to spill into the day.Transcendence in Fashion
When asked about spirituality, Carzana laughed. Raised in Cardiff with a religious upbringing, he has since distanced himself from organized faith but finds solace in something greater. This reverence permeates his shows, creating a quiet, thoughtful experience. After his emotional closing wave, Carzana invited guests to linger, sharing wine and stories. He sought feedback from supporters, mentors, friends, and family. Despite the accolades, financial challenges loom large. “I need to find more funding,” he confessed, emphasizing the value of his work. “We want to give fashion purpose and build that into the world.”Carzana’s poetic vision of beauty ultimately enriches our lives, offering a moment of transcendence in a world often overshadowed by vanity. Given the current global climate, such moments are invaluable.READ MORE