Despite a market largely influenced by trends like smaller cases and vibrant dial colors, the year 2025 stood as a beacon for exceptional watchmaking, witnessing unparalleled ingenuity in high horology. This period celebrated groundbreaking mechanical innovations, ranging from remarkably slender or high-velocity tourbillons to imaginative chronographs, exquisitely handmade timepieces, and sophisticated chiming mechanisms. These extraordinary creations collectively underscored a momentous year, offering a glimpse into the zenith of watchmaking artistry and engineering prowess.
Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 emerged as a titan in chronography for 2025. This masterpiece, representing the fifth major innovation from AP's research and development division, integrates a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon. It redefines chronograph mechanics by replacing the conventional heart cam and hammer system with an innovative three-rack setup that uses mainspring energy for reset and counter advancement. This results in an exceptionally smooth and swift pusher activation, akin to smartphone keys. The calibre 8100, despite its intricate design, maintains a slim 4mm profile and features a peripheral rotor. Its aesthetic is classic Royal Oak Jumbo, complete with a 'Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50' dial and a heritage logo font. Limited to 150 pieces, this exclusive watch is priced at over a quarter of a million Swiss francs.
Blancpain captivated the horological world with its Grande Double Sonnerie 15GSQ, a watch lauded for its exceptional complexity. Deemed the pinnacle of chiming complications, this timepiece offers two distinct on-demand melodies: the traditional Westminster chime and a unique four-note sequence designed by rock musician Eric Singer. An eight-year endeavor, this watch boasts 1,053 components and 21 patents, featuring a flying tourbillon and a retrograde perpetual calendar. The innovative melody selection is managed by a column wheel. Encased in a 47mm x 14.5mm gold frame, the manual-winding calibre 15GSQ reveals its dazzling mechanics and exquisite hand-finishing from both front and back. Valued at CHF 1,700,000, it represents Blancpain's most ambitious creation to date.
Breguet's Expérimentale 1 pays homage to the pioneering spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet, introducing a watch that fuses historical craftsmanship with modern technological advancements. This timepiece marks the inaugural chapter of a new R&D series, designed to inspire future calibres. It elevates Breguet's tourbillon and constant force escapement by boosting its frequency to 10Hz for enhanced precision, employing controlled magnetism to ensure stable impulse delivery. This new escapement combats friction effectively and decouples the balance's impulses from the escape wheel's rotation. Housed in a contemporary 43.5mm gold case, its regulator-style dial is inspired by a historic pocket watch. The Expérimentale 1 retails for EUR 320,000.
Bulgari continued to assert its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking in 2025 with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At merely 1.85mm thick, it surpasses previous records for the thinnest tourbillon watch. This engineering marvel was achieved by arranging all components on a horizontal plane, utilizing the caseback as the mainplate, a design approach reminiscent of high-performance racing car manufacturing. The skeletonized movement, visible through sapphire glass, showcases a large barrel, hours, minutes, tourbillon, and wheels. Accompanied by an incredibly slender 1.50mm titanium bracelet, this limited edition of 20 pieces, priced at EUR 750,000, epitomizes Bulgari's relentless pursuit of miniaturization and innovation.
Chopard introduced its L.U.C Grand Strike, a highly complex watch combining a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, and a tourbillon regulator within a 43mm 18k ethical white gold case. Leveraging its expertise from the Full Strike model, which features sapphire crystal gongs, the L.U.C Grand Strike delivers exceptional acoustic clarity. It incorporates multiple security mechanisms to prevent damage and a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting. The 686-part calibre is openly displayed, revealing intricate mechanics and superb finishing. With two barrels—one for the strike work (12 hours) and one for timekeeping (70 hours)—both wound via the crown, this timepiece is certified by the Poinçon de Genève and COSC. Chopard's L.U.C Grand Strike is a testament to the art of chiming watches, retailing for CHF 780,000.
Ferdinand Berthoud's Naissance d'une Montre 3 represents an extraordinary commitment to traditional watchmaking. Under the guidance of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a team of 80 craftsmen dedicated 11,000 hours over six years to manually create this timepiece using historical tools and methods, eschewing modern CNC machinery. This wrist chronometer features a constant force mechanism with a fusée-and-chain transmission, its architecture inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud's Astronomical Pocket Watch no. 3. Presented in a 44mm gold case, the hand-wound calibre showcases breathtaking hand-finished details. A true rarity, only 10 pieces will be produced at a rate of two per year, each priced at CHF 850,000.
The year 2025 marked a significant period for haute horlogerie, characterized by bold explorations into technical frontiers and a deep reverence for artisanal craft. From the mechanical ingenuity of Audemars Piguet's redesigned chronograph system to Blancpain's dual-melody chiming marvel, Breguet's high-frequency escapement, Bulgari's record-breaking thin tourbillon, Chopard's acoustically pure Grand Strike, and Ferdinand Berthoud's meticulously hand-built chronometer, each brand presented a unique vision of excellence. These extraordinary timepieces are not merely instruments for measuring time but are profound statements of human endeavor, pushing the limits of what is conceivable in precision engineering and artistic expression, cementing 2025 as a memorable year in the annals of watchmaking history.